Adventure Ha Giang ▬ Trip 04 Oct.2015

4.3 Day 2: Quang Ba – Yen Minh – Dong Van – Meo Vac

At 12:00 pm , we went to Dong Van Town, the girls found a home-stay as a acommodation for tonight. We replaced clothes and then went out for lunch .
While waiting for my 2 girls, I drove around the town. There were lots of people from different kinds of traveling. I drove on the 4C road toward to Meo Vac. I made a survey about the road, then went back to Dong Van town. There were not any restaurant we could have lunch
After lunch, we strolled round the town and then drove on a concrete road toward the northeast of town. We drove into a village. At T-junctions, the girls met a Hmong sister. They made friend to her and asked her for visiting her house

The road to get to her house was quite dangerous, we ran through the steep slopes with valley below. The road was deserted, so we must be alert. Her house stayed at a valley that had a steep downhill to get to there, so we stopped for driving and walked to her house. (23.290205, 105.383071) – adventure Ha Giang

The girls were helping Hmong sister’s preparing in the market – adventure Ha Giang

She showed us the Vietnam – China borders and the way people across the border. For every 100 Hmong people there are about 90 of them work as an illegal worker in China. The salary is 300K per day, most of them just know a few words in Chinese like “kuai ah” means “hurry up “. Now, by checking the map, I know it is Mo village, Pang Ma which stays near the Nho Que River.

She show us the Vietnam – China border – adventure Ha Giang

The way to go down was so hard, so we went back up, back to Dong Van. Hmong sister asked us for giving her a lift to the market to prepare to sell tomorrow. We agreed and the girls also said that they would give a hand.
I opened the map, I thought at 14:00 pm we could get to Meo Vac and then return before it gets dark about 17:00 pm. We went for a distance forward, it was so dusty cause the road were repairing. There were many backpackers drove on same way like us. We went forward, there were many children stood along 2 sides of the road, we stopped and talked to them. We also gave them candy. A moment later, we saw a couple who were driving motorbike waved their hands to say hello. They were happy.

We talked and played with 2 kids – adventure Ha Giang

Một lúc sau thấy 2 vợ chồng (ba mẹ của 2 em nhỏ này) chở một bao cỏ trên xe Win, họ chào chúng tôi và cười rất chân thành – adventure Ha Giang

– Tiếp tục đi chúng tôi gặp 1 tốp trẻ em vẫy tay xin kẹo “cho kẹo đê – cho tiền đê”, gần đó có vài nhà dân, mấy đứa này nhìn ốm yếu, một bé trai nhỏ nhất không mặc gì trên người, bụng rất to (có lẽ lâu ngày chưa tẩy giun). Đứng đó nói chuyện, cho kẹo bọn trẻ, từ xa có một bà lão gọi bọn trẻ về, không cho chúng nhận kẹo nữa, chúng tôi cười vẫy tay chào bà, bà cũng cười rồi trở vào nhà.

Một đoạn rất đẹp trên đèo Mã Pí Lèng, noi chúng tôi gặp đám trẻ con thứ 2 – adventure Ha Giang

Khung cảnh đồi núi sông hùng vĩ – adventure Ha Giang

Trên đường đèo gặp nhiều nhóm bạn trẻ tụ tập đứng chụp hình làm cản trở giao thông, còi + đá đèn từ rất xa mới chịu đứng gọn vào – adventure Ha Giang

– Tới Mèo Vạc, chạy xe đến gần chợ, thấy một cái Village đồ khu vực trên Villageg, chúng tôi đứng bàn luận một chút, đèo vừa qua là đèo Mã Pí Lèng. 2 bạn nữ mua khoai lang và kem để cùng ăn.
– Trở lại thị trấn, lúc này trời bắt đầu tối và khá lạnh, nhiều đoạn khung cảnh hùng vĩ nên tôi dừng lại ngắm, 2 bạn kia thì sợ trời tối và lạnh. Tôi kêu 2 bạn đi về trước, tôi đuổi theo sau (một lần nữa 2 bạn này nhìn ra Village tính của tôi trỗi dậy).

Đồi núi hùng vĩ, phía dưới là sông Nho Quế, tôi để xe gọn lại rồi đứng trên lan can bê tông, nhìn tổng quan một lượt, lấy một hơi dài gào thét trước thiên nhiên – adventure Ha Giang

– Sau đó nhanh chóng bắt kịp 2 bạn nữ, chạy lên dẫn đường. 18h về tới, 2 bạn nữ lại về tắm thay đồ (miệng thì kêu lạnh nhưng mặc quần khá ngắn, không hiểu). Tôi đi tìm tiệm vàng để đổi $15 sang VND, kiếm khắp thị trấn không có, chỉ có tiệm trang trí đồng, bạc.
– Tôi trở về ăn tối cùng 2 bạn nữ ở một bún trong chợ, ngồi nói chuyện vui với cô chủ quán, cô rót 1 ly rượu ngô uống thử, tôi thấy vị cũng bình thường. Trong chợ có một nhóm bạn trẻ du lịch đang trải chiếu, mắc đèn, ăn tối, hát hò, nói chuyện rất rộn ràng. Hình thức này thật thú vị, ngủ ngoài chợ, đỡ tiền nhà nghỉ, với người có sức chịu đựng khá thì ok, nhưng phải đi đông mới làm được. Tôi bỗng thấy hứng thú muốn tìm hiểu, thiết nghĩ không lẽ tối nay ra đây ngủ.

4.4 Day 2: Dongvan – Lungcu Flag – Dongvan Town

– Trong lúc ăn tối, tôi suy nghĩ trầm tư, cảm thấy khó chịu, tự thấy đi một mình đã quen, có nhiều hành động đẩy 2 bạn nữ này vào nguy hiểm, nhưng những lúc đó tôi mới là chính mình. Lúc sáng khi tụt xuống hang động đó mới là con người tôi: mạo hiểm, kích thích, khám phá, trải nghiệm, tôi cảm thấy hình như đi cùng 2 bạn nữ này ở trong vòng an toàn quá (di chuyển ổn định, ở nhà nghỉ, ăn cơm tiệm, ngủ sớm dậy trễ, …). Suy nghĩ 1 lúc, tôi đã có quyết định, tôi sẽ tách ra đi một mình, tôi sẽ đi lên cột cờ Lũng Cú ngay trong tối nay và xin ngủ nhờ nhà dân trên đó, sáng mai tự mò đường đi xuống điểm cực Bắc dưới sông Nho Quế, đằng nào tôi cũng chưa có chỗ ngủ tối nay, còn có 250K ($15 chưa đổi được, tiền trong tài khoản thì thứ 2 mới rút được) đủ tiền ăn + xăng về Tp Hà Giang. Tôi thử đưa ra ý tưởng sẽ đi lòng vòng thị trấn một mình và tối nay ngủ ở chợ coi 2 bạn kia phản ứng sao. Không thấy vấn đề gì lớn. 2 bạn nữ đề nghị ra Phố Cổ dạo và kiếm quán cafe ngồi trò chuyện.
At 19:00 pm, we walked round the Pho Co, I refused to drink coffee with them, I just wanted to walk alone, and then I said goodbye. I bought some food (sausage, bread, mineral water). I went toward the west of town, I stopped at the gate of the town to equipped for myself with a dagger on my feet, flashlight, put my money on my socks. When I was equipping, the girls encountered me. I thought for a second, then I told them about my plan. They said nothing
About 20:00 pm, I departed. It was dark, I was alone on my way. About 30 minutes, after departing, I met two traffic polices who were parking across the street. I stopped to say something. They were going on a mission, there were many visitors in the weekend, so they had to control the traffic to avoid any traffic jam. They asked me where will I go. I gave them the answer and by the way, I asked them for the road to get Lung Cu. They gave an advice to me that I should come back to Dong Van for tonight and left my plan for tomorrow, they also warned me about dangers which I could meet. But, in the end, I still kept my idea, so they gave me their phone number, I maybe called them if I got a trouble. I thanked them and moved forward.
I kept moving straight ahead, then 2 met a couple who were bringing a motorbike. I observed carefully, then get closer to ask them why. After that, we waved to say goodbye each other
I drove quite far before I saw some vague electric lights. It was Ma Le region, there were not any house which still opening at that time. For a while later, I saw four young guys who did not wear a helmet. They were driving a motorcycle with lights off. I drove slowly, tried to observe them. When they went away from me, I felt happy.
I kept going on my way, I met a woman who was closing her house’s door. I asked her about the way to get Lung Cu. She said that I just go straight ahead for 20 minutes, I would meet a road sign, then I could follow it to get where I want.
Finally, I drove to the border checking point. There were few people sat to drink tea on the way, I stopped to ask for some directions, and then I went flagpole toward. A reason why I went to the flagpole in the night cause I have seen a picture on the internet about there where was bright with electric light, but at that time, it was total black.
At 21:30 pm, I used a flashlight to went over stairs. It was dark, so I just heard flag’s moving by the wind. Maybe, it too late for turning on the light. I set my camera time to take some photos.


At 22:00 pm, standing for a while, I felt so cold, so I decided to return. I drove around that area to look for some house as a motel or homestay for tonight. But there were no one, so I had to go back to Dong Van. Then, the girls called to me, they said they had rented a room for me and I have to go back. I appreciated that, but at that time, I almost run out of money, so I refused. They said everything is done. It’s up to me.
On the returning way, I felt insecure, so I drove so fast even if I’m a near-sighted person. I saw some rocks were lighting up. I reassured myself that are some rocks has capable of light reflecting or self-luminous ability, they absorb the sunlight at daytime then they light up at night. I knew it, so I did not scare about it, but I worried about the robber or something like that. I took a long breath and kept the focus on my way. Then, there was a moment when I was over think. I lost driving controlling. I fell down. Fortunately, I was okay. Just a bit scratched. I stood up, took a look around. I was quite scared but tried to be calm down. I took the dagger, got ready for everything. My motorbike lay at the edge of the abyss. I stood for a second, I found no one around me. Oh dear, I almost die at a moment. I thanked God for me survive.
I took up my motorbike, checked for everything. When everything was okay, I kept going on my returning way. The night climate made me cold. When I was in Ma Le area, I got a problem again. For that time, I got a trouble with a pile of wood on the road. Damn! I said. How they could let a lot of woods there. It was dangerous. You could get an accident like me without care. One more time, God saved my life. I was okay. From that time, I did not drive fast like I used to do.
I continued my driving. Going over a mile, I saw a car in front of. I thought they maybe were smugglers. Although, I was not near China- Vietnam border area, I must be careful. Moreover, if they are residents, what are they doing at middle night, I kept away from them. I did not want to get any trouble on my returning way more. I drove slowly and then I stopped. I observed them. Then I came back to my way.
I drove for a distance and then encountered them again. At that time, I also saw a milestone which showed me that it just take 10km from there to get to Dong Van. I was happy, so I drove faster and pass over that car. I was glad when I got into the 4C road, it means I near Dong Van town. It was 23:00 pm at that time.
Finally, I got to the homestay where the girls were staying. When I got off the motorbike, I felt so qualmish. I couldn’t say anything, just used body language to let the host know I need a help. He helped me drive the motorbike into the garage. I ran to the room. The girls were sleeping. I left my backpack off and lied down on the bed. I had whirling minds and buzzing ears. I took a paracetamol pill to drink and then sink deeper into sleep.

Next page … 4.5 Day 3: Dongvan Town – Themvan Village – Xeolung Village – Nanli River, Vn’s North Pole

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